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Angela Cave

Travelling is never time wasted

Off to the land of the Chettinars…..

One of our favourite hidden places, the gracious Visalam hotel hidden amongst the crumbling palaces of the Chettinars. The Chettinars were rich, they built palace after palace from the middle of the 19th century to early 20th – and then they left. Their legacy is the beautiful and melancholy villages with row upon row of architectural gems slowly decaying in the heat of the sun.

Visalam was a private home built for a favourite daughter and is now a small and charming hotel and the perfect base to explore. Take a bicycle or a bullock cart and just wander through the streets – some of the palaces are open with maybe a caretaker to let you in but this is no tourist trap, little known it remains a gem.

It is also the region of the horse temples, out in the countryside, quiet apart from the birdsong and with the astonishing terracotta horses guarding the shrine and offered yearly by villagers. It is also home to my new suppliers of hand loom cotton the Mahalakshmi weavers, so happy to be able to offer this wonderful quality cotton in scarves, shawls and towels.

Images of the Chettinad region

 

India 2023

I did try to do this whilst I was in India just a week ago – but failed, so I am making up for it by writing a travelogue now.  Lots of my lovely customers ask me where I went, where I stayed and where I recommend so I will pop those details in too, along with some photos which I hope give some idea of the wonderful places I visited and some of the people I met too.

We flew Emirates, changing Dubai and it was, as ever, a long day – but the sight of the sun rising over India kept me glued to the window whilst everyone else was dozing – it is my own little ritual and as soon as I see the first glow of light I know I am about to embark on another Indian adventure!

We were met at Kochi airport by the Kuonis rep – and our very good friend and wonderful driver Joshy, who has kept us safe on the unpredictable (I am being kind)  Indian roads for a number of years – he should be called Mr Unflappable as nothing ever phases him and he is endlessly patient when I want to stop and take photos too!

Day one was recovery mode at CGH Earth’s delightful hotel in Kochi, Brunton Boatyard.

It is, as its name suggests, on the waterfront so cooling breezes blow in and you can sit on your balcony drinking the loose leaf tea provided in your room and watch the water –  dolphins, dredgers, fishing boats, a naval vessel proceeded by a motorboat waving a red flag – yes really,  and, rather unbelievably, a small coracle that appears most mornings to fish in these busy waters!

A dip in the pool, an excellent meal in the hotels History restaurant where a diligent chef has collected recipes from some of the many communities that have settled in Kochi, trading spices, making rope and the myriad of other pieces of a very old jigsaw that is Kochi and a very good nights sleep completed day 1.

 

The Backwaters of Kerala
The Chinese fishing nets at sunset
CGH Earth’s delightful hotel in Kochi

March 22, 2023 Angela Cave Photography, Travel 2 Comments

A little bit of history about cashmere …….

Treats to come…..and a little bit of the history of cashmere.

The Empress Josephine of France might not have been great at choosing partners, but her wardrobe was simply marvellous.  Amongst many treasures, she possessed over 200 beautiful cashmere shawls so was obviously a woman of sartorial taste and elegance!

Cashmere, and its use in clothing, has a long history.  Marco Polo is reputed to have remarked on the fine quality of the woven cloth when he popped into Kashmir on his travels and Kashmiri traders have been sharing their wonderful wares with us for several hundred years.

There are some wonderful images by artists such as William Simpson of the weavers at work. William Simpson –  1823-1899  –  was a Scottish journalist  and water colour artist working as a war correspondent.  In 1859 he was sent by his employers, the Illustrated London News, to cover the Indian Mutiny of 1857 and also to send back sketches. The artist arrived at Calcutta on 29 October 1859 and travelled widely in Northern and Central India and the Himalayas and Kashmir. In February 1862, he returned to England having drawn about 250 sketches which were later published as a book in 1867 and give a wonderful insight into the country and its artisans.

Even Jane Austin was apparently not averse to a fine shawl – very handy when sitting at ones desk writing – I have a cashmere scarf around my neck as I write this, tho that is where the similarity between me and Jane Austen ends, as you might have guessed.

The more traditional designs are simply wonderful, and I have ordered just a few of the very fine large ones which will be winging their way to me shortly.  If we are allowed to have picnics, garden operas, outdoor music and the like then a big snuggly cashmere shawl is very handy on a less than balmy British summer evening.  Should we get lucky and have a hot summer cashmere is great too, it has very good wicking qualities so there is just no excuse not to add one to your wardrobe.  I have also ordered some very fine soft wool pashminas, dyed to order, in the loveliest of pastel shades, plus some modern patterns in silk, silk wool and cotton silk mixes – see the pics below, they are just gorgeous. I will also have some scarves bearing parrots & peonies, how exciting is that!

As soon as I know when I can be out and about again, I will give you dates of where I will be and in the meantime I, like most of us, am dreaming of summer and just a little freedom and I hope that you are all safe and well.

 

Angela

Cavea23@gmail.com

If you want more info, or have a special occasion and want a particular colour match do let me know, I can get shawls, pashminas and scarves dyed to order – there is a little lead time due to delivery from India so do get in touch in good time.

February 12, 2021 Angela Cave scarves & shawls, Travel Leave a Comment

Spanish River cruise

Fred Olsens MS BaemarSpain is a country with so many landscapes within its 17 autonomous regions that it would take a lifestyle to explore each in detail.  It was therefore a pleasure to spend two weeks dipping in and out of some of its major cities, sailing around its shores and then turning up the Guadalquivir River to Seville and Cadiz, where it was party time for the four ships in the Fred Olsen fleet as they moored together for only the second time in their history – so seeing old friends and making new ones was certainly part of the trip.

We sailed from Southampton on MS Braemar on a sunny, still day and so were able to be on deck and enjoying the excitement – flying is one sort of holiday experience but sailing away on holiday always holds a frisson of voyages past and new horizons, and you don’t have to remove your belt and shoes!

Our first port of call was in fact not Spain at all but Portugal. Lisbon, and with a whole day to explore we set off early with guide book in hand.  Having a Portuguese friend, I was armed with some insider tips and so went straight to the totally wonderful Santa Justa Lift.  The lift dates from the 19th c, and the structure is resplendent with neo-gothic arches and geometric designs, while inside the polished wood carriages transport passengers up in great style to the viewing platform which gives amazing views of the Baixa district.  Our head for heights seriously tested we then felt the need for some sustenance and a Pastéis de Nata was swiftly dispatched with a good expresso, and we then went in search of a shot of cherry brandy – it is a tradition, so had to be tried!  Served from a tiny booth, our Ginjenga was expertly poured to ensure that we had a small wild cherry in each tiny glass and judging by the numbers of local customers this is a very popular tradition indeed.

Almeria gave us the opportunity to explore a part of Andalucia that was, for many years, a barren and harsh landscape where the only source of income was the sale of a particular type of indigenous grass collected and sold to visiting British ships who transported it back to the UK for use in the production of glass. Fortunes changed when a young film producer who couldn’t afford to make films in the US discovered that the area was an ideal substitution for the background to westerns- and so the spaghetti western was born, bringing much needed jobs and money to the area.  Oasys is the mini Hollywood set where films such as ‘The Good, The Bad and The Ugly’ and ‘For a Few Dollars More’ were made and is an entertaining way to see the landscape and indulge in a little ‘Yee Ha’ fun too, never a bad thing to discover your inner cowgirl!

Spanish Castle
Castles and crenellations
Spanish Fans
Fabulous fans
Stunning Seville
Stunning Seville

Malaga offered wonderful tapas in the central market, tiny deep fried octopus, clams with chilli, grilled sardines and some excellent and slightly frizzante white wine enjoyed whilst the hurly burly of the market went on around us.  The dazzling displays of lemons and oranges, tomatoes and peaches were testament to the acres of land devoted to fruit and vegetable production said to serve almost the whole of Europe. An afternoon spent in the charming village of Mijas del Pueblo was a break from the city and the white, white buildings and balconies full of flowers made the climbs up and down the steep narrow streets a reward in themselves.

Gibralter was, as might be expected, a welcoming port of call for a British ship and having been before and taken the cable car to the top we opted to walk to the Trafalgar Cemetery – a cool and shady respite on a hot day and then to The Rock Hotel from whose sunny terrace you can see for miles,

Seville was truly a revelation, the pavilions built originally for the Iberio American exhibition in 1928 stand as a testimony to the architects that designed each one to reflect the style of that country and the grandest of them all is the very grand flourish that is the Plaza de España.

This is a truly amazing centrepiece to the city and I can think of no other where you can climb into a rowing boat and float amidst porcelain pedestals and tiled fountains. When a gentle breeze is blowing you can catch a cooling spray from the central fountain and just stand and take in the whole panorama which must truly be one of the finest centrepieces to any city.

Flamenco is at the heart of Seville and we were therefore delighted to spend an evening at the iconic El Patio Sevillano situated right next to the bullring, where flamenco has been performed since 1952 and where great flamenco figures such as El Farruco and Manuel Vargas started their artistic careers. This was the sort of flamenco that comes from deep within, stamping and whirling and showing joy and pain, love and despair and we were treated to some outstanding dancing from the performers – whose concentration and passion was etched across their faces.

As we were overnight in Seville and moored within a few minutes’ walk from the centre, the following day we took a horse and carriage, along with about 20 other couples from the ship, and our large carriage flotilla made a great flourish as it clipped and jangled its way through the streets, the warm stone walls throwing the sound back at us. It gave us a taste of what the city must have sounded like when horses were the only mode of transport and we cut rather a dash in our shiny and stylish carriages.  The heat of the afternoon was mitigated by a stop at the Hotel Alfonso X111 which is to Seville what the George V is to Paris, a Grande dame indeed just a stone’s throw from the Cathedral, and a glass of chilled white wine set us up for some more exploring. An excursion to the bodega of Tio Pepe in Jerez was a fascinating insight into production of the drink that graces many a British drinks cabinet and we were charmed to see the very small glass of sherry set out daily for the mouse population of the cellars – with a little ladder to enable them to reach the glass and take a sip – I did listen hard to hear signs of singing mice, but perhaps they were sleeping it off.

Our last port of call was Cadiz and we set off to explore in the cool of the morning.  There is something magical about being in a city when it is just waking up, the rattle of shutters rising, the sound of brooms on balconies and the camaraderie of being out and about before the rest of the population is reason enough to forgo breakfast – and early morning bars are always available to provide an eye-opening espresso. Cadiz is one of Europe’s oldest cities and its maritime heritage is reflected, literally, in the gold tiles on the cathedral allowing sailors to see it from their ships.  We walked around the walls with the turquoise sea glittering below and with the heat of the day beginning to press on us we headed back to the Plaza Del Ayuntamiento where celebrations were held to commemorate the meeting of all four ships in the Fred Olsen fleet.  This was a special occasion and bands and dancers, inter ship competitions and trips to see old friends filled the rest of the day.  Our exit from the harbour, all four ships in line with a fire ship accompanying us spouting jets of spray was a fitting end to a truly memorable cruise. River cruising is very different from ocean cruising, sailing through rather than round the countries you visit, and mooring in the heart of cities means that you are immediately in tune with the local atmosphere, sound and sights.  If you have never cruised and find an ocean cruise daunting, a river cruise might be just the option – and a small, friendly ship is the ideal way to enjoy it.

View from Rock Hotel Gibraltar“I would sooner be a foreigner in Spain than in most countries. How easy it is to make friends in Spain!” – George Orwell

Angela Cave

December 27, 2018 Angela Cave Travel Leave a Comment

Impressions of Southern India

Southern India
Colours and impressions



April 17, 2017 Angela Cave Travel Leave a Comment

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About Angela Cave

Angela CaveLove to travel, love to write and love to take photos. Work for a publishing company, living in Wiltshire, married and enjoying seeing the world.

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