One of our favourite hidden places, the gracious Visalam hotel hidden amongst the crumbling palaces of the Chettinars. The Chettinars were rich, they built palace after palace from the middle of the 19th century to early 20th – and then they left. Their legacy is the beautiful and melancholy villages with row upon row of architectural gems slowly decaying in the heat of the sun.
Visalam was a private home built for a favourite daughter and is now a small and charming hotel and the perfect base to explore. Take a bicycle or a bullock cart and just wander through the streets – some of the palaces are open with maybe a caretaker to let you in but this is no tourist trap, little known it remains a gem.
It is also the region of the horse temples, out in the countryside, quiet apart from the birdsong and with the astonishing terracotta horses guarding the shrine and offered yearly by villagers. It is also home to my new suppliers of hand loom cotton the Mahalakshmi weavers, so happy to be able to offer this wonderful quality cotton in scarves, shawls and towels.
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Well how about this for breathtaking scenery! Day 2 saw us driving up and up – and up- to Munnar weaving our way through the tea plantations. The scenery was simply stunning and served to distract us from precipitous drops and hair pin bends, along with the usual extra excitement of Indian bus drivers- a unique breed who seem to specialise in roaring up behind the vehicle in front honking wildly and lurching in and out until overtaking becomes even a vague possibility. How we love them as the disappear in a cloud of black smoke and noxious fumes! However arrival at our hotel dispelled all thoughts of crowded roads and noise. We were at The Spice Tree perched on the edge of the valley and a haven of peace and birdsong. Two days of doing not a lot restored our equilibrium and dispelled jet lag and sitting on the balcony with a cool breeze, the birds and the sound of temple music drifting up from the valley below was just a magical start to our travels.
